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Peixe Porco 9a first ascent

This past Saturday (2th March) I managed to finish what I had start almost two years ago. It was by far the biggest challenge that I had in climbing and I’m really happy to have done it, so I can move on, living no unfinished business behind J

I bolt this line in spring 2011, at a time when I was recovering from a serious injury of the expedition to Pakistan in 2010. After many months without climbing and with an unhealed broken wrist, I had my doubts if I would ever climb hard stuff again. So in the beginning of 2011 I start climbing again slowly and after 3 months I felt that I was ready to serious action, I still had some pain on my hand, but the strength was there and so the motivation. I started looking for some line that would be like a next level for me and at the same time, inspiring enough to put all my energy into it.

There is not that much rock in Portugal, especially for hard climbing, so if you want to try something harder, you have to bolted, but first of all, you have to find it!! That’s what is so cool about climbing in Portugal, you have to do everything from the ground up.

I start thinking where it would be possible to find that perfect challenge, and immediately I thought in Sagres. Not just because there was still some potential for new routes, but also because it’s a truly special place with a nice atmosphere. Since I had bolt most of the hard lines there, I knew really well the potential that still remained and although it wasn’t that much, I remembered a route that I had bolt years before, “Pop Star” 8b+. I bolt the bottom section of that route and then to avoid a blank section, I decided to link it-up with the route on the right

So without any hesitation, I took the drill and just went there already convinced that were a possibility there, I had a feeling and I couldn’t be more right!! J

I drilled the upper blank section and immediately start trying it, after the first session I knew I had found what I was looking for...

It was hard to believe how perfect the route was, crazy shapes with almost no holds on it, just sloppy features with a micro two-finger-pocket in the middle. It was hard to figure it out all the moves, but day after day, I was getting more solid on it.

However, there was a big problem that I didn’t had think while bolting the route, there is no climbing community in Sagres and it’s 300 kilometres from Lisbon, it was one of the biggest challenges in all this odyssey!

But the biggest of a challenge was definitely my head, at some point I realised that I had everything that I needed to send the route, but for some reason, I just kept falling over and over again, to the point I start doubting if it would happen at all.

After so much failure, it’s impossible not to have a feeling of uncertainty and even thoughts about why you’re really doing it, you can’t try it forever, there is a “line” where you have to let go. The problem is to realize where is it, because at the end, it’s a line that you draw yourself!!

I am very happy with the feeling of satisfaction and achievement that came out of all this big fight. During this last months I kept saying that I would never get into a thing like this again, but who knows, this feels so great!!...

 Here it goes the trailer from the movie that will come out soon:


(courtesy of the talented HandsUpCreations crew, thanks guys!!) ;)


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